intermittent fault code 20 & engine light

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ken60

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FZ1-S: [2006] mods; PC3, META alarm, Carbon Can Co. slip-on [mapped PC3]

An appeal to all you good and 'experienced' bikers out there - I'm exasperated!

My Yam engine light comes on without any rhyme or reason [giving error code 20 - 'intake temperature/atmospheric pressure' symptom].

However, I have checked the resistance of both sensors and they are in sync [same reading - so no disparity] therefore no reason for electronics to record a problem. Also checked for kinks and blockages - nothing!

Bike goes like a rocket when opening up the throttle but when idling with 'engine light' on, is a little lumpy.

Can't work it out or resolve the problem - any help will be appreciated.

Cheers to you all
 
Have you tried clearing the error code? I had the same instance and discovered the error code, tested the sensor and put it back in. Same symptoms. It was then that I spoke to a Yamaha tech who explained that once a code is thrown, the ECU ignores the sensor and treats it as faulty until you replace it (if needed) and then clear the error code. Even with a new sensor, so long as the error code exists, it will remain faulted. Clear your codes and re-try the bike. If you have the service manual, it is outlined in there but somewhere he in the forum, I've also typed out the steps... I'll find that and update this message.

Found it:

Be SURE you have the kill switch in the off/kill position when you go to diag mode!!!!! Having the kill switch to run will erase the codes when you reach d61. Go to d61 to view your error codes, if any. Wait several seconds because if there are more than one, it will flash the codes individually every 2 seconds. Write them down and consult the manual for their meaning, then address them accordingly. Chapter 8-40 explains the procedure.
Click to expand...

Thus, in d61 with the kill switch in the off position, wait 10 seconds and write down any codes that come up. Flip the kill switch to the RUN position and it will clear the codes. Flip it back to OFF and turn the key off. Switch to RUN and start the bike. See if the code returns.
 
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how to clear error codes ?

Hi, Im getting the same code when i put it in dealer mode. When i reach 61 it displays codes; 13, 22 and 30. How do i fix this or by pass them because i dont have an airbox installed. I just put filters on the throttles any advice would help thanks! The bike was in an accident but the engine and frame is good. The entire tank and airbox was destroyed so i just put filter no airbox on the throttles. Thanks in advance!
 
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FZ1inNH said:
Have you tried clearing the error code? I had the same instance and discovered the error code, tested the sensor and put it back in. Same symptoms. It was then that I spoke to a Yamaha tech who explained that once a code is thrown, the ECU ignores the sensor and treats it as faulty until you replace it (if needed) and then clear the error code. Even with a new sensor, so long as the error code exists, it will remain faulted. Clear your codes and re-try the bike. If you have the service manual, it is outlined in there but somewhere he in the forum, I've also typed out the steps... I'll find that and update this message.

Found it:



Thus, in d61 with the kill switch in the off position, wait 10 seconds and write down any codes that come up. Flip the kill switch to the RUN position and it will clear the codes. Flip it back to OFF and turn the key off. Switch to RUN and start the bike. See if the code returns.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your thorough and inciteful reply. I have done exactly as you have said - sadly, no joy. Engine light still on and error (or fault) code 20 still showing - indeed logging into the corresponding 'Diag' codes does not bring up any error codes [only on my digital display]?

I will once again check the two sensors in question and the relevant connections for good contacts and kinks etc.

If I solve the problem, I'll post it. Any other suggestions will be thankfully recieved.

Thanks again
 
After the bike warms up, turn the key to off, then turn it back to on and start the bike again.
Does the code still show up?

And do you have an FCE?
 
If you go strictly by the manual, a 20 fault code means you have a atmosperic pressure sensor hose that is plugged. Intake air pressure sensor hose is plugged, kiked, or pinched. Malfunction of the atmospheric pressure sensor in the intermediate electrical potential. Malfunction of the intake pressure sensor in the intermediate electrical potential. Malfunction in ECU. Use diag code 02 and compare actually measured atmospheric pressure with the meter display. Go to diag code 03, set engine stop switch to run, then operate the throttle while pushing the start switch. If the display value changes, the performance is OK. Intake sensors can be tricky and sometimes accumulation of dirt can mess them up. I've found the best way to make an absolute test is to find a like vehicle and swap them out and see if that cures the problem. There verywell may be other Yamaha's that use the exact same sensors. I found on my Ford Focus that my Ford 450 in my RV had the same MAF sensor and when it failed in the Focus, I swapped it with the one in the 450 truck chasis and the problem cleared, then I went to the auto parts store and bought a new one. It still cost me $130 but at least I didn't start to spend bucks on sensors that may or may not have been the problem.
 
Thanks again to all whom have made the effort to be helpful.

Found both atmospheric and air intake pressure senors to read 4.98 v [the spec. range is 3.75 - 4.25 v], so they are equalised but slightly out of spec.

After having lifted the tank and tested the pressure sensor along with checking the wiring couplings, I turned on ignition and lo-and-behold, no more engine light!

Also, the fuel pipe from the tank looked as if it had a little kink to it - so this possibly may have had a bearing on the problem?

It now remains to be seen whether or not the problem returns.

Will update if or when it does.

Thanks to all.
 
ken60 said:
Also, the fuel pipe from the tank looked as if it had a little kink to it - so this possibly may have had a bearing on the problem?
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The sensors are relatively cheap, thankfully! Check out Partshark.com and you can find them in the microfiche. ;)

I've replaced my fuel line doing the suggested mod. I will be doing the same with my wife's FZ1 over the winter.
 
I intermittently get this exactly problem, usually when I am low on fuel and bike started when in side stand... If I turn it off, stand it up and start sometime it clears, either that or ride to the petrol station, fill up ten turn on it will clear. Very strange, but don't notice any change in performance or running characteristics.. Would be interesting to know what exactly it is!


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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=51.192230,0.725424
Member of the 1 litre club...
 
Quick update for people that may view this in the future.

Stripped the bike down to remove the FCE and found a loose connection where the cables are joined at the ECU plug (directly under the airbox). I re-crimped it and the fault has now gone. Fingers crossed
 
Well,

The fault is back! Infact, the fault returned about 2 weeks after I found the loose connection. The connections are all soldered now so I'm pretty certain that all is well there.

Can anyone tell me the exact location of each sensor?

From memory I found one of them just behind the tank (my crotch area) but could never find the other one!

The weather is warming so that means the bike will be back out and I'd love t fix this once and for all.

Any help would be greatly appreciated
 
Stuuk1,
Did you ever find the problem? Mine is doing the exact same thing--I even found a loose connection in the FCE wiring near the airbox, too. Also thought this was the cure. Mine returned in a month.

Possibly related(?): The bike is cutting out intermittently, like hitting the kill switch. I ride every day that it's not raining, year-round. About once every three weeks, with steady throttle at 4K rpm, the engine runs very choppy, like it's stuttering. When I let off the throttle, it's a fight to keep it running. Clears when above 5K. If it dies, it takes several tries to get it restarted. Then it may run great for three more weeks--or maybe three blocks. It's a lot like a woman; you never know what to expect.
Anyway, I don't know if this problem has anything to do with the error code mentioned above, as I never see a code or light when it's running rough. Btw, no backfiring. Also, all stock '06 except Yoshi slip-on, K&N filter and airbox mod, and FCE. 19K miles

Any help would be appreciated.
Weasel
 
The bike is cutting out intermittently, like hitting the kill switch. I ride every day that it's not raining, year-round. About once every three weeks, with steady throttle at 4K rpm, the engine runs very choppy, like it's stuttering. When I let off the throttle, it's a fight to keep it running. Clears when above 5K.
Click to expand...

This sounds more like the common coil issue. Follow LOSENUT's diag procedure of checking the header temps when cold with a wet paper towel.
 
Didn't try the header temp test but did wrap electrical tape around the coils. It is definitely running better now. Thank you for your advice!!

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 4
 
Sorry to hear that. So, what are you going to do now?
May I suggest the paper towel test. And, start looking on Ebay for used R1 coils. I got my set of 4 for $50 shipped. Surely your peace of mind is worth that?
 
I have since upgraded my test tool. I picked up an inexpensive infrared thermometer from Harbor Freight. I find it useful for other things, but is great for testing the header temps.
 
Guess I'll try the towel test or pick up an ir thermometer.

$50 for a set would be great. The ones I saw were $170/set. If I knew w/o a doubt that's what it is I'd probably still do it. Problem is, I can oftentimes run thru a full tank of gas without any issues. Then out of the blue it starts again. Thinking of disconnecting the FCE for a while to eliminate it as a possible culprit.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 4
 
Hmm. If its that intermitant, maybe its something else. When mine started, it stayed.

I just checked out EBAY. Theres a few sets of 2004-2006 R1 coils at a buy-it-now of $48 with free shipping.
 
Hi all,

Only just seen the replies.

The answer is no, the issue is still around. It usually on when the bike is cold. After it warms up I can turn it off and back on and the code will clear.

What's the header temp thing all about?
 
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