New member Rough Idle need HELP

Hey guys just bought a used 2011 FZ1 in January with 600 miles. Has a yoshi slip on exhaust and no other mods to my knowledge. Around 1200 miles the bike started rough idle when warm. It would shake between 600-1200 rpms rapidly.

After some searching all I could find was stuff for gen I bikes or "raise the idle". After the bike stalled at a red light I tried raising the idle to 1500rpms. This helped greatly but I decided to bring it into the dealership anyway.

They ran it through Yamaha testing and found no issues. They also lowered the idle back to 1000rpms bringing my problem back. They said not to touch the idle and blamed it on bad gas. I have ridden this bike almost every weekend have put around 6 tanks through it since this issue started. They refuse to listen or help anymore reminding me my 60 day warranty is up.

This is my first FI bike. HELP

Not familiar with this problem... but my idle is set at 1350 RPMs, I think the manual calls for between 1100-1300. so 1000 is too low. I have a little bit of a pulse with my tach needle at that RPM, but overall it is good. Also, remember to adjust idle when the boke is over 170F or it will not work, Im sure you know this but i'm just tossing it out there.

I would fill your tank with some high octane gas, add some Seafoam to the tank, raise your idle to at least 1,300rpms, and run it like that for the entire tank. 1,000rpms is too low for a GenII. This is why I hate dealers! They suck!

I agree that 1k is too low, I believe the manual specifies 1200-1300 rpms. If your idle is too low ( < 800 rpm) it will lope and stall. Check your vacuum lines too. Might be a leak somewhere. Vacuum leaks can cause surging and stalling. It wouldn't hurt to make sure all the air box screws are properly tight. Good luck.

This is a thread I had started a few weeks ago. Currently my idle will be about 800 rpm when the engine is warm and the engine dies sometimes when I come to a stop and let it sit for very long.
When I come to a stop light, I have to raise the rpms to about 1000-1100 to keep the engine from stopping. Be careful with how much you adjust the idle thread, I think I turned mine too much and I think
I must have disconnected the connection that the tube leads to.

http://www.998cc.org/forum/gen-ii-t...does-not-affect-rpm-level-when-bike-warm.html

speeddemon2588 said:

I agree that 1k is too low, I believe the manual specifies 1200-1300 rpms. If your idle is too low ( < 800 rpm) it will lope and stall. Check your vacuum lines too. Might be a leak somewhere. Vacuum leaks can cause surging and stalling. It wouldn't hurt to make sure all the air box screws are properly tight. Good luck.

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Stealership said it passed a vacuum leak test and the bike runs great at higher Rpms. I ran it for over an hour on the highway at 5k rpms no issues.

Also when I lower the idle below 1500rpms the problem comes back so I'm not sure what it worse a high idle or the issue itself.

Check under the tank for a kinked fuel line.

Is the engine management light on when you start the bike? Any fault codes showing on the bikes display?

There is a possibility of a bad coil. While the bike is cold, start it up and as it heats up, start testing the temp of the headers. Each header should be about the same temperature. If one of the coils is not firing, the header for that cylinder will heat up slower. I used a wet paper towel to test mine. In my case, cylinders 1,3 and 4 all made the water in the wet paper towel sizzle, while #2 was not as hot with much less sizzle. I now use an infrared thermometer to test the temps, but the paper towel works just fine.

coilpack was my first thought too

just raise your idle to 1500ish and call it good. if its not bad above that, then don't go below it.

jared p said:

coilpack was my first thought too

just raise your idle to 1500ish and call it good. if its not bad above that, then don't go below it.

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I have NO codes or check engine lights being thrown. To rule out bad gas as the stealership has determined it to be, I ran it down to near fumes and filled it up with 93 octane. Problem still exists and when I lower the idle it exponentially gets worse.

Using car experience I would think if it were a coilpack a code would be thrown like cylinder misfire or something. I would also assume it to be constant at all RPMs. But at the same time I have seen a puff of black smoke when wacking the gas from idle. Probably over analyzing it.

Im going to take a video and post it. From the searching this seems to be a known Yamaha issue. Ive grown up on Hondas and sorry to say but wish Honda made a bike like this. :spank2:

Videos

Here are the VIDS. I post them in the order they were taken.

Very cold start. Hasn't run in a couple days and its raining outside. Around 40F in the garage. Idle is set where dealer left it. Can hear quick minor RPM changes. Running good though.

cold_zps94f0ced4.mp4 Video by danmansuttmeier | Photobucket

Here is what I consider half way warmed up. The RPM changes are slower and a little more dramatic.

med_zps3259c870.mp4 Video by danmansuttmeier | Photobucket

The temp wasnt rising much more so I decided to try and turn up the idle. I start turning around 25 seconds in and keep turning till around 50 seconds in. Not much change but you can hear it slightly improve.

idle_zps3a7a3f7c.mp4 Video by danmansuttmeier | Photobucket

Hear is when the bike is as warm as it will get. I let it idle then give it some gas to try and show that it holds RPMs fine and runs fine at higher RPMs.

hot_zps98344823.mp4 Video by danmansuttmeier | Photobucket

I'd have to say, that would bother me as well. Something is amiss. That loping idle doesn't sound right. Very strange indeed. Did you try running Seafoam through it for a couple of hundred miles? It wouldn't hurt to try. Any Autozone, Pep Boys, Advance has it on the shelf for like 8 bucks.

I know your dealer said they checked for vacuum leak but I would throw a sync tool on the throttle bodies. Sounds like maybe one of your throttle body adjustment screws may have fallen out or are way out of adjustment.

Kpd1031 said:

I know your dealer said they checked for vacuum leak but I would throw a sync tool on the throttle bodies. Sounds like maybe one of your throttle body adjustment screws may have fallen out or are way out of adjustment.

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Thank you for the replies guys. Maybe I'll buy the sync tool since I know the FZ1 is the bike I want for a while even if it is not THIS bike. What are the chances this is something major? Should I trade it in for what I paid for it?

Kpd has a very valid point there. That lopping idle can definitely indicate a vacuum leak regardless of what the dealer said. You could easily check around the throttle bodies by spraying some starter fluid or carb cleaner around them while the bike is up to temp and idling. If you get a rise in RPM's you have found a leak.

YZFRiderNY said:

Kpd has a very valid point there. That lopping idle can definitely indicate a vacuum leak regardless of what the dealer said. You could easily check around the throttle bodies by spraying some starter fluid or carb cleaner around them while the bike is up to temp and idling. If you get a rise in RPM's you have found a leak.

Click to expand...

Thats actually a really good idea and I will try it this weekend. If not I was going to pull the coil packs/plugs to see if there are any clues. Next step is to a different dealer and ask for a diagnosis. I'm getting worried its something expensive like a bad ECU. :surrender:

I will update as I go through this to help any future victims.

00musdan said:

Thats actually a really good idea and I will try it this weekend. If not I was going to pull the coil packs/plugs to see if there are any clues. Next step is to a different dealer and ask for a diagnosis. I'm getting worried its something expensive like a bad ECU. :surrender:

I will update as I go through this to help any future victims.

Click to expand...

Sometimes these troubleshooting issues take some time to eliminate possible causes. A new dealer may shed some light on the issue at hand. Worth a shot.

My bike gets the same loping idle but only on hot starts. Ride the bike on a warm day, stop, restart bike after a few minutes and I get that same lope. I've seen some other people mention the same thing. I suspect it's either a heat soaked sensor or similar to vapor lock on a carburetor engine . Usually a couple quick blips of the throttle clears mine right up and it returns to a normal idle.

Sorry I can't offer a solution, more than a few have mentioned this issue but I have never seen a solution. Most people that have had this issue find it only occurs when the bike is hot.

UPDATE:

While waiting for my carbtune II to ship, I threw in some fuel injector cleaner and a tank of 110 octane fuel. I went riding for about 3 hours and turned the idle up a little. The bike really ran good, almost no surging idle at red lights. I thought I had found my solution! When I stopped to take a vid the bike went back to it! Vid is below with the 110 octane.

Race Fuel Video by danmansuttmeier | Photobucket

SO a week later my carbtune came in. Seems to be built pretty solid. I went through the pain of lifting the front of my gas tank in the air and digging for the vacuum lines. It was THE WORST. Wouldnt recommend it. :banghead:

Anyway I hooked it up and here are the results.

http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy167/danmansuttmeier/20140524_132723_zps44d8ac68.jpg

http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy167/danmansuttmeier/20140524_132718_zps61294129.jpg

The readings were jumpy but if you look close you can see all readings at the "perfect" 26mmHg. Now I am at a loss guys. I sprayed my air intake sensor (MAF?) with sensor cleaner. I also ran it with it unplugged which threw a code. Once plugged back in the code went away (proves its working?). Im going to check spark plugs next I am at a loss here and wasted $120 on the carb tool.

Well your throttle bodies are not in sync! Sync them so that they show all the same reading the 26mm does not matter that much they all must read the same value if they don't the idle will be jumpy. Other than that do not put 93 or higher octan in the bike it is made for 87 oct and that is the gas it will run best with. Once you have adjusted the throttle bodies just set the idle to 1300 and everything should be fine.