Jerky while shifting

Chandler

Chandler

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The Bike: 2007 Yamaha FZ1 Gen II Black
Miles: almost 17K
Services: regular oil changes, air filter only once. The brakes may have been changed since there is some material left after all this time.

The problem:

At first I thought it was me, but now I am convinced otherwise.

It shifts a little rough especially in high RPMS, the bike tends to jump once it catches the gear. The clutch as never been replaced and I will probably take a look at it or just go ahead and buy plates for it next oil change or over the winter.

Even if I try to drag the clutch a little it feels like I have little clutch to play with before it catches, and it still jumps. I thought I just hadn't gotten acustoemd to the bike yet however I have been riding it awhile now. I do not notice it shifting up into the higher gears when I am already at lower RPMs, I can make that shift smooth.

It's almost as if the shifter fork(s) doesn't roll into the right spot on the drum until the clutch engages (The pressure is back on the plates)

Could I have a bent fork, or damaged drums? I really don't want to split this case open to find out.

Or does this bike typically have jerky feel to it? I have ridden many machines and drive a 5 speed - so I feel like I am competent enough to shift properly. It feels like I am ridding a kids GSXR 1000 that's 7 years old and hasn't been taken care of when I try to shift (That is a little bit of a dramatic statement I suppose)

Any advice would be appreciated, thanks!
 
Are you running dino oil or synthetic? Syn helps smooth smooth out the shifting a little bit. FZ1 is not the smoothest shifting bike I've ridden, but it's not the worst either.

I would check to make sure your clutch fully disengages when it's squeezed in. Put the bike on center or rear stand, start it up, squeeze the clutch and shift to 1st. Does the rear wheel spin with clutch squeezed all the way in? If it does, can you easily stop the wheel (use caution here!! Don't get your hand or foot sucked into the chain or hugger!)

If the rear wheel doesn't want to stop, I would guess that the clutch is not fully disengaging, which could contribute to rough shifting.

It helps to not fully roll off the throttle on this bike, to keep the shifting smooth. Roll off just enough so that RPM barely drops as you squeeze the clutch. (not that you don't know how to shift.. it's just a different technique which suits this bike well).
 
I did figure out the roll off technique when shifting fairly quickly. That helps a lot...

Went he bike is on it's center stand, and in neutral, I can rev the bik up and the tire will spin, if I put my hand on it I feel no resistance.

In gear with the clutch disengaged it does spin a little, but I am able to stop the tire and feel little to no resistance. I am thinking that is just the plates stickign together while cold.

I have Mobile 1 in there right now, full synthetic.
 
If you're sure the clutch is adjusted properly I would look at the chain and sprockets. A worn chain and sprocket set will definitely affect shifting. Also make sure the chain slack is adjusted properly.
 
The long unnecessary answer:


After typing this book I realized this information wasn't really necessary but I didn't have the heart to delete it.

The rear tire was replaced when I purchased the bike, so the slack was set then. I am about 5'9" so not short but to short to put my weight on the bike and measure the slack in the chain. It looks about right with a friend on the bike, it could probably be pulled back about 1-2mm at most I suppose then I would feel it's to tight.

The chain and sprockets are OEM never replaced, but the sprocket teeth are in excellent condition at the current millage and there is NO side to side play in the chain, as for "stretching" out I would assume it is minimal since the slack is right and there is not play in the chain itself, but I haven't tried to move each link.

Next time I get a tire I will definitely be putting a new chain and sprocket set on, but I did consider doing it when I purchased the bike or assumed I would rather - but the chain and sprockets appeared to be in great condition.

The short

The chain and sprockets are fine

--
Thanks for the input!
 
Mine was that way drove me nuts. Then I did the FCE and other upgrades to my bike problem solved...I think the stock ECU controls make the bike way more jerky and notchy then it needs to be JMO.
 
Hmm.. maybe you ARE just spoiled by a smoother bike! Mine can be slightly notchy, but not to the point where it makes me think anything is wrong with it.

I did also notice that pre-loading the shifter on this bike does not smooth things out. Smoothest shifting on my bike occurs when I partially roll off and give it a quick, solid click up or down, without pre-load.
 
Thanks guys,

I would much rather be told I am just paranoid then be told I have a tranny issue. It makes sense to be the ECU or be related to the flies/ intake when rolling off the throttle to harshly - but I feel like I have just about perfected what I can with the throttle as far as shifting goes.


@donoharm, Yes, I can blip of the throttle to give myself a little room to shift without clutching and nothing alarming happens, I am not a ninja at this method of shifting so I expect it not to be smooth but when I try really hard with my timing and my RPMs are low I feel a sense of accomplishment so I must be doing it right :p

__

Possibly related?
When I down shift into 2nd and 1st (sometimes 3rd if RPMS are dramatically changed), it makes that awful clunking noise in the case from the gears catching even while the clutch is engaged.

Does the above throw a red flag at anyone? This is not something uncommon to me and has nto given me discomfort on dirt bikes or others in the past, but if I drop the throttle below 3.5K rpm and go from 3rd engaged to disengaged, then downshift to second, I feel like this should not be happening.

Thoughts? :beer:
 
For smoother less clunky shifting I've been using this oil additive, its specific for wet clutch & does a great job making shifting smoother.
some will say snake oil without trying it & that's OK but I do use it every oil change and feel a significant difference. also some oils make shifting clunky for some reason, try to use different engine oil.

Liqui-Moly Racing Bike Oil Additive
 
What you describe in your first post sounds a lot like worn engagement dogs. Now before you go ripping into your tranny understand that this is extremely rare for the FZ1 and is most likely not the case. In order for the dogs to "round off" and exhibit what you describe the bike would of had to have been severely abused with a lot of high rpm missed shifts. Another sign of worn dogs would be the tranny jumping out of gear under extreme load. So two questions. Was the bike ever abused? Does it occasionally jump out of gear? If no to both, I would look into other possibilities.
 
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