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  1. #1

    Default Cam chain tensioner

    Hi guys
    So I have a 2006 fz1n 18,000 miles and it's making a ticking or clicking noise etc on cold start up. After 30 seconds or less the noise goes. I'm thinking it's not holding oil pressure in the tensioner and until it's run for 10-30 seconds I'm getting the noise.
    My questions are..
    Do I buy an oem tensioner or do I go the manual tensioner way?
    Is it a simple job for someone that has a good idea of what to do with instruction guide ?
    Have any of you fitted the Ape type manual tensioner?
    Also I have looked for an Ape manual tensioner but only find one saying years 07-12 same for 06?
    Lots of R1 Ape tensioners
    Also do I have to block the oil passage to the old oem one and how?
    Any help or tips on this would be highly appreciated

    Regards

    Delta
    Last edited by Delta; 05-31-2017 at 10:32 AM. Reason: Add info
    Mods
    K&N air filter Iridium plugs
    ASI removed AIS plates AIS plug
    Shorty levers, Arrow headers Micron serpent GP end can
    Motech ally rad grill Led mini indicators (R&G tail tidy, frame sliders, bobbins,fork sliders,rear hugger)
    Hel braided brake lines No flies Graves velosity stacks
    Ecu remap by HTMC, HID headlight
    Nitron race shock, Powerbronze seat, 16 tooth, Bluetek silicone hoses Renthal flat bars Oberon bar end mirrors Quick action throttle. carbon bits, cnc billet foot pegs

  2. #2

    Default

    Just to add I've found this manual one on eBay
    Yamaha YZF R1/FZ1 Billet MCCT (Manual Cam Chain Tensioner).



    Brand new, and ready to fit.

    Anodised black.

    Fits :-

    2004-2008 YZF R1

    2006-2013 FZ1
    Mods
    K&N air filter Iridium plugs
    ASI removed AIS plates AIS plug
    Shorty levers, Arrow headers Micron serpent GP end can
    Motech ally rad grill Led mini indicators (R&G tail tidy, frame sliders, bobbins,fork sliders,rear hugger)
    Hel braided brake lines No flies Graves velosity stacks
    Ecu remap by HTMC, HID headlight
    Nitron race shock, Powerbronze seat, 16 tooth, Bluetek silicone hoses Renthal flat bars Oberon bar end mirrors Quick action throttle. carbon bits, cnc billet foot pegs

  3. #3

    Default

    The OEM tensioner uses a ratchet type system to adjust the chain. As the chain/guides wear it ratchets outward to take up the slack in the chain, even with no oil pressure it will keep the slack out of the chain until the engine builds oil pressure. I would pull the old one out and see if its working properly. You should have to squeeze the clip in order to push the piston back in, if it pushes in without squeezing the clip, then there is something wrong with it. If its working properly I would look elsewhere to find the noise.

    Its a simple job, remove the two screws and pull it out, if your going to use the OEM one you will need to reset it. The shop manual explains this fairly well.

    An aftermarket manual tensioner will plug the oil gallery when you install it.
    Last edited by 9Lives; 05-31-2017 at 04:47 PM.

  4. #4

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 9Lives View Post
    The OEM tensioner uses a ratchet type system to adjust the chain. As the chain/guides wear it ratchets outward to take up the slack in the chain, even with no oil pressure it will keep the slack out of the chain until the engine builds oil pressure. I would pull the old one out and see if its working properly. You should have to squeeze the clip in order to push the piston back in, if it pushes in without squeezing the clip, then there is something wrong with it. If its working properly I would look elsewhere to find the noise.

    Its a simple job, remove the two screws and pull it out, if your going to use the OEM one you will need to reset it. The shop manual explains this fairly well.

    An aftermarket manual tensioner will plug the oil gallery when you install it.
    So your saying there is defiantly a ratchet system in the oem cct yes?
    I've also been told it's a mechanism that holds back the oil pressure in the oem tensioner when the engine has stopped running, when this fails it won't put pressure on the cam chain until the engine has built up oil pressure again by starting it.
    This clatter clicking noise only lasts about 10 to 20 seconds on cold start up then runs quiet again. This is why I'm thinking use a manual cct to see if this stops the noise, this way it is a cheap way to find out if the oem one has failed. Also a cheap fix. Apparently the ape cct is better for tuned bikes as too much oil pressure from an oem cct can wear out things prematurely.
    Any one else put a APE cct in their fz1?
    Mods
    K&N air filter Iridium plugs
    ASI removed AIS plates AIS plug
    Shorty levers, Arrow headers Micron serpent GP end can
    Motech ally rad grill Led mini indicators (R&G tail tidy, frame sliders, bobbins,fork sliders,rear hugger)
    Hel braided brake lines No flies Graves velosity stacks
    Ecu remap by HTMC, HID headlight
    Nitron race shock, Powerbronze seat, 16 tooth, Bluetek silicone hoses Renthal flat bars Oberon bar end mirrors Quick action throttle. carbon bits, cnc billet foot pegs

 

 

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